Your Anti-Fashion Moment

Don't ask, don't tell

2009-10-15T16:05:00.003+01:00

It would be about time to lift this ban. Someone coming out as "gay" would minimize cohesion. Firstly, wasn't this said of black people, women and all other "different" people out there?

But what I find even more outrageous is the way in which this leaves people no choice to slip through the either/or: you are either gay or you are not. What if you are something else? Then, can you serve? That shows the absurdity of such a policy and way of thinking and conceiving the world.

And of course, when there is a war, and more men are needed to kill and be killed, then the sexuality issue can be overlooked... it all makes sense.

Turning a new page

2009-10-11T20:51:00.003+01:00

I think it is time to get real.

If this sounds like I have disappeared for a few months and come back another person, it is pretty much true. Saying I have been through a few revelations is kind of true too.

Fashion is a strange world. I have been attracted and repelled by it for a long time. What I have recently discovered is that it is also a dangerous world. And I don't want to be part of it anymore.

Which does not mean I believe it to be inferior or have limited power. On the contrary, I think fashion is probably stronger than politics in some respects, if only in that people will buy organic clothes because it is "trendy to go green" instead of actually caring about nature. And I am not a ecological freak, I am quite the sarcastic, but if it's about the thought.

Anyways, I want to start over, and maybe make this blog less fashion newsy but probably give it more soul. After all, I am a writer, not a journalist.

Barbie - still looking good at 50

2009-03-09T12:52:00.000Z

There way a lot of pushing, shouting and giggles at Hamleys in Regent Street, Central London yesterday as Barbie celebrated her 50th birthday.

The world’s most popular doll was at the store in the flesh to greet children and nostalgic adults and pose with them for a souvenir photograph.

On my part I have to say I was simply excited to get a T-shirt. I always loved Barbie - even though I have to admit I did mine a little bit of damage when I was young ... but surely everyone has tried their hairdressing skills on her at least once ...

Anyhow, I was lucky to own so many.

“It’s amazing to think she is fifty already. I remember when I finally got my first Barbie. You see, my mother would not buy me one because she disapproved. She was shocked at the fact a doll had breasts” recalls Christel.

Needless to say the live doll did not have the 36-18-38 measurements that stirred controversy over unrealistic body expectations for women in the 1960s. But she did not disappoint with long blond hair and a Barbie-pink dress.

I did think the style was a little bit Playboy Mansion for a toy shop but with measurements such as hers it would have been hard to expect otherwise.

Barbie first went on display at the American Toy Fair in March 1959. She was the first mass-produced doll to mimic adult women and caused notorious debate.

However, regardless of the various critiques, the 11½ inches tall doll-woman sells at three a second worldly, according to NDP research Group.

Having a doll that did not represent a baby, but a fully-grown, sexual woman was unheard of. But Barbie also embodies freedom at a time when woman were though of primarily as housewives.

The doll has had over 100 different job titles and tried myriads of activities over the years.

Now, at 50, she is further from retiring than ever - is it the botox or what?!

Voulez vous coucher avec moi ce soir ... ?

2009-03-08T20:59:00.003Z

In Paris and in Gaultier? Surely!

The collection is XXXXX, "completely X rated" according to the master. It is all extremely sexy and alluring with graphic dark cuts, fishnets, see-through, fur, velvet and masquerade masks.

It is all about strength and playing with textures and naked flesh.

Of course it's Paris and the setting only makes it glamorous. But I think it s incredible the way in which Gaultier sets the mood and the atmosphere, but also how the skin is used with the clothes.

The body is looked at, used and adorned, but there is a dynamic of used and being used by the clothes.

Now I wish i was a pleasure girl if I can wear that.

Boys boys boys on the shows ... literaly

2009-01-26T20:23:00.005Z

Jean Paul Gaultier always puts on a show, and this time he decided to dig back to childhood.

Whether it was a family affair, dressed up for Sunday school with Afro/clownish hair, or a methaphore of growing up, the whole catwalk was a criss-cross reference to older days and sober values.

Paper-thin trench coats, Chelsea boots, twig-thin ties, lacquered shoes and pinstripe suits; all in blacks, greys and whites with a splash of block red - declined from child to adolescent to man (with the odd young mother-figure in a retro boyish trench).

A refreshing uptake on old times with pehaps a little too many classic cuts that Gaultier could have twisted around a little more unconventionally.

All in all a suprising show with a few good pieces, although I doubt all this nostalgia will start a new modern trend. Much of it has been seen before.

Sex appeal

2009-01-24T18:59:00.004Z

Rosie Huntington-Whiteley is the new face of sexy.

According to Agent Provocateur - and her boyfriend in her latest lapdance video for the underwear brand.

To be honest who could blame him? The collection immaculately sends sex signals, and the bondage, dominatrix hint is a well known male and female fantasy - in theory anyways.

Vivienne Westwood's son, Joseph Corre, the founder of the company has always been an advocate for making faux bondage acceptable and sexually forward women the essence of a post-feminism century.

Rosie is supposed to represent the new beauties of this season, although, I believe she lacks some edge to her features.

Maybe it is all about choosing a model who will not make the whole campaign appear like a sex-ad...

The calf dilemma

2009-01-22T20:24:00.004Z

Today, after a stressful day at work I decided to treat myself to a Top Shop spree. (Working in Victoria street does indeed not help my wallet.)

I found a really nice skirt, very much in the sexy/smart tones of the season: black, under-the-knee, high-waisted, tight, with ruffles at the back. Oh and a sales price tag of £15.

All perfectly cut - Victoria Beckham style.

This is the definition of my dream skirt - or one of them at least: so what went through my erratic head to prevent me from running out of the changing rooms, buying it in all haste, smiling to an unimpressed and exasperated rush-hour crowd all the way home?

In a few words: I had a calf attack.

No nothing to do with my muscles melting following intense stiletto-wear. The dress made my calves look the size of my thighs.

I never really worried about my calves: they are toned, and usually barely noticeable. To be honest, I usually have a thunder-thigh panic instead of a thunder-calves panic. How ever even heard of that?

I am not the only one to worry about unusual parts of my body: there are more and more slim-lotions and creams to tone your arms, calves, back, neck and a myriad other places.

I am sure we are slowly sliding towards an LA beauty aesthetic: soon we are going to have to look like a movie star with bleached teeth, on a daily basis.

It is true, the Victoria Beckham cut - just below the knee - can be very unflattering if you have large-ish hips or short legs.

The waist looks fabulous (and so does the buttocks), but it is what I call a profile shape: it enhances you from a side point of view but often not from a front view.

It all depends on the shape you want to achieve.

A risky move: jeans and the office

2009-01-19T18:17:00.007Z

I had my first day as an intern on the Westminster city council communications team today, and I made my first mistake: I wore jeans.

Denim is a tricky one, because it can be dressed up: add a black cardigan and sober heels to a dark pair of skinny jeans and you're in business.

However, most offices have a no jeans policy, which is understandable if they have a suit and shirt or suit and tie requirement, but it's often not that simple.

A woman can get away with wearing a shift dress or a purple skirt with patent heels, so long that it does not cry out "weekend style".

It might be because of the history of jeans: they were worn by workers (with a zip on the side) - because the material is thick is resistant against tears - up until the popular wave for informal-wear in the US in the 1970s.

And it is true that allowing jeans into the office could leave the door open to baggy, laid-back styles. I wonder though, with the new shapes and colours of jeans available now, if denim will ever cross the barrier to the 'formal' side.

It has already made it to 'casual chic' and designers have made denim-suits for both men and women - think Jil Sander.

Not that I am trying to justify my mistake - I will be wearing a secretary-style skirt tomorrow. Lesson learnt.

Go and check out this blog if your a fan, it has got some amazing info on jeans.

The origins of beauty: the history of fashion week as we know it.

2009-01-17T12:05:00.005Z

Gazing at catwalk shows twice a year, in the hottest four corners of the world – by that I mean Paris, New York, London and Milan – is routine for fashion editors, journalists and buyers all over the globe.

Fashion Week is taken for granted anyone remotely aware of fashion, inside and outside the industry.

Shows are available online, almost instantaneously, ready to be blogged and commented about by trend fanatics. We know everything about catwalk shows: a day in the life of a model, backstage action, what the front row wears, what they eat, when they smile, everything. The history of the little black dress has been penned more times than models run the runway.

But there seems to be a major gap about the coverage of the event, and the big question is: where does it come from?

The French practically owned fashion up until the 20th century, so, predictably, the origins of the fashion show can be traced back to the French capital. In the 1800s, "fashion parades" regularly took place in Paris couture salons.

By the 1910s, the concept had been imported to the United States and large department stores were staging fashion shows to attract the attention of female shoppers. The monopoly was still French however, and the gowns displayed were either couture gowns from Paris or the stores’ own copies of them.

The first fashion week however was held in New York City in 1943 by an American fashion Publicist, Eleanor Lambert.

During the Second World War fashion insiders were unable to travel to a German-occupied France, and this is where Eleanor Lambert came up with the richest idea in fashion at the time.

She organised “Press Week”, an event in which American designers, previously overlooked, showcased their collections for fashion journalists.

No speeding from one tent to another, celebrities and champagne binges as we know them now, but the event still made a splash. It was a huge success; Vogue took up on it and American designers started to be promoted abroad.

After the war, the industry returned to previous fashion superpowers, namely Paris, London and Milan for the new fashion weeks that had emerged there, leading to “the big four” that still dominate the fashion calendar.

Fashion week as we know it now (with the media buzz and the tents), really started in spring 1994, after Fern Mallis, vice president of IMG (then executive director of the Council of Fashion Designers of America) centralised the New York shows in Bryant Park.

A chic victory for the fashion world.

Kate is getting old

2009-01-16T21:45:00.012Z

It has been twenty years since Kate Moss started her modeling career, as the grunge blond turns 35 today. Quite an achievement to still be featuring on so many beauty and fashion campaigns at this age for a model.

For a quick history, Kate Moss was scouted at 14, in 1988. She first appeared in the magazine The Face at 15, shot by Corinne Day. She appeared on more than 30 magazine covers and created the waif look.

In my opinion, you either love her or you hate her.

We can only wait and see how her big 3-5 birthday bash will degenerate. She is supposed to be partying all week-end.
I was surprised however to see pictures of her from the 90s, here are a few:

Barbie is going to turn 50 in style

2009-01-13T21:22:00.007Z

Barbie is turning 50 this year (on the 9th of March) and she is not going to be short of a wardrobe for the occasion:

50 designers are creating life-sized outfits inspired by the 11 1/2 inch doll, which will be shown in a full-scale fashion show held by Mattel during New York Fashion week.

Hopefully the designers don't make the clothes to fit the real measurement of Barbie if she ever were to be rendered in the flesh, which would be 36-18-38.

I always wanted a collectors barbie when I was a child and I remember spending hours, perplexed over my mother's sewing machine, desperately struggling to re-create the clothes I saw in my Barbie Newsletter (yes, I was a hardcore fan at the time, even if I had a tendency to make my dolls practice extreme sports).

I feel better now knowing dozens of designers did the same as children. Anna Sui admitted she started with dressing Barbie before dressing people.

Over the years Barbie was dressed by over 70 designers, including Burberry, Christian Lacroix, Versace and Vera Wang. She has an entire little family, and she looks damn great for her age.

She is one lucky mini-lady to have a round-up of designers perspiring at this very second to create for her a full Autumn/Winter 2009 collection.

Shoes, Chocolate and Love, the Westwood way

2009-01-12T21:43:00.007Z

Imagine shoes that look like white chocolate, make you feel gorgeous minus the calories and with added glamour: sounds like heaven? It is Love in the Westwood way.

Her Lady Dragon shoes simply make my heart melt like a chocolate fountain and they are declined in milk, white, dark and coffee creme.

Even better news: they are affordable, with a generous price tag of £76. Okay, maybe not in my range for a late late late yummy Christmas present, but why not Valentines? They are better than a chocolate date in my opinion.

Maybe it is because I have always had something for shimmer and shinny, but they look surreal. Think Cinderella-glass-shoe charm.

They would team well with a 20s outfit, especially in approaching spring. A great alternative to patent party shoes.

Because of the shine and the plastic-tea-set feel of them, a pair of skinny jeans will show them off in their true glory at the office, or for a romantic date (think cut-out hearts).

DSquared is taking the new year with cat fists

2009-01-10T21:29:00.005Z

And then there are those who chose to take the new year in full blow... literally...

I personally would not get into a fight with Naomi Campbell, but Linda Evangelista did not turn down the DSquared's new catfight spring/summer 09 advertisement campaign.

The supermodel wrestling, in strappy stilettos and bare-back loose dresses, would fit a Grecian vase with splendour.

It has a strange appeal to it, and Steven Meisel's still-touch shows us glamour in all its power.

Come and have fun with the robots

2009-01-09T11:56:00.004Z

One of the best resolution of the year for kids - or anyone who loves toys for that matter - would be to drag their parents at Selfridges on the 22 of January for the taking over of Selfridges' Concept Store by Kidrobot.

Hold you breath: the store-gallery will sell everything.

Think signature toys like Munny and Dunny, Tshirts, hoodies and a collection of bags overflowing with original prints and toys.

It will also feature Kidrobot’s accessory line by Tarina Tarantino: Frank Kozik’s Labbit stools, and 20-inch vinyl toys customized by artists such as ilovedust and Jon Burgerman.

It all sounds like a bunch of big names, it actually is the promise of tremendous amusement and a trip down childhood lane with incredible graphics.

Well worth a detour.

Kidrobot will be at Selfridges, London Oxford Street, in The Wonder Room from January 22 to February 21, 2009.

Resolution 2: The Fad Diet

2009-01-07T21:25:00.006Z

Well, it is an obvious one: everyone seems to want to lose a few pounds after Christmas excesses, starting with Gwyneth Paltrow.

Her resolution, according to Marie-Claire is 'To detox in January by doing more yoga, eating more organic foods, drinking lots of water and taking some herbal laxatives".

If you're up for no-food, a lot of unladylike time in the loo, and strange-tasting detox juices, go for it. I am not sure it is the best resolution though. It probably works, but at what cost?

The main problem is not celebrity's diet tips, it's always strangely sadistically satisfying to know someone out there is making oneself sick to look drop-dead gorgeous when we can simply read about it, take a healthy resolution for 2009 and get on with life.

The problem is all these opposing messages reaching out to us: scales sitting next to chocolate bars at the cashiers anyone?

Yes, it might be a sturdy resolution to lose a couple of pounds after all these mince cakes, but why not try cutting down on chocolate, skipping for ten minutes every morning (as, I grant you it is cold for a morning run) and eating more vegetables?

Everybody in fashion is probably already kick-starting every beauty plans they know in time for the approaching Fashion Weeks, but after all that stress a nice massage and a cup of green tea could be a start.

Then hitting the sales could be the workout option...

Teetotal

2009-01-06T16:53:00.003Z

One of the things we tend to do in Britain is follow the all or nothing mantra.

So, after the festive season and gallons of pints of wine and party liquor in our stomachs, it seems a reasonable resolution to swear off drinking.

The teetotal craze is starting to hit our shores.

ELLE has a article about it, and newspaper columnists seem to swear by it. It is true that many people keep off alcohol for a month after taking the resolution.

The problem is that it is only a overload-party-effect. Who never uttered in a moment of drunken misery and brain-cell damage: "I am never drinking again"?

Teetotal is not an altogether bad idea: alcohol is intoxicating, it gives bad skin, doubles the recommended daily calorie intake (although a Starbucks cappuccino does too...) and can ruin a few stilettos.

But staying completely free of it might not be the best of ideas either, it's better to learn moderation. And after all, we need something to numb the pain of wearing high heels, and I have found in the past that a medium glass of white wine can do the trick.

Back for the New Year - Resolutions contents

2009-01-05T16:33:00.003Z

It is Monday and Mondays have always been the best deem to redeem oneself.

I admit I have been on a little bit of a fashion sabbatical lately - I will blame it on the holidays - but I am back packed with ideas.

It is the new year and like everyone, I have made one serious resolution I intend to keep (or at least try to). Other than that I will live and let live like I do.

I am not going to follow the pointless one-month-lasting resolutions magazines push on us after the party season. Namely: fad-diets, living at the gym, going teetotal, spending less on clothes (WHY would anyone do that?!) or detoxing.

I am however going to blog about them: new years resolutions are my theme this week, so let's get going with fashion again. I don't like 2009 as a number combination (don't ask why, I just don't like 9s) but I sure am excited about a new year.

The Beckhams never rest: David's Signature fragrance

2008-12-27T14:32:00.005Z

First, i want to apologise for all these days I spent eating Christmas chocolate and mince pies instead of posting ... I truly have no excuse, but I guess that's what the holidays are for!
I really do need to figure out how to use that twitter.

I am sure everyone is still digesting the turkey and the pudding (I for one, am) so I will skip the clothing advice today - after all it's the week end, a snug jumper will do the trick.

It is Christmas week but the Beckhams have not wasted time: just after Victoria pre-launches her dVb dress collection, her husband is advertising his new Signature fragrance.

First off: I was really taken by the video. The way it is shot throws shivers down your back.

It is meant to be a more sensual and sophisticated version than the original Instinct perfume.

I only had the chance to smell a whit of it, and it is best to judge a perfume after it has been in contact with the skin for a few hours.

To be honest I prefer Victoria's clothes, but the fragrance does for a late present. It is young and has character.

And it will complete a dVb pair of jeans for the fans.

Merry Christmas!

2008-12-25T08:54:00.000Z

Just a few of some of the amazing Christmas-Queen-like pieces McQueen made this year. Enjoy, and happy holidays to everyone.

French fashion Special 3 - The French high street

2008-12-22T20:11:00.005Z

As promised I left my snowy mountains this morning and drove down to have a closer look at what a provincial French town has to offer clothes-wise.

To be honest I was expecting grey, grey and more grey. I was not entirely wrong, but in the midst of all these dull, dark colours I spotted the accessory I will be taking back to London.

This season the French are doing something big in fashion - literally: the oversize scarf.

They are in all colours, from clementine-orange to grapefruit-pink.

I later realised that the magazines are ablaze with the question: "the oversize scarf: do you dare, or do you fear it?"

I say: DARE.

Vogue featured it in an Amazonian shoot last year, and the effect is sublime: all wool, it really adds contrast (in colour and texture) to a black or uniform outfit.

The rest of the displays were well set out and embellished but the inside of the shops rather disappointing ...

Take your typical high street store and remove any items containing bright colours, tight fits, sequins and unusual textures (I am thinking the overly popular shinny or leather leggings). Now you have it: the French high-street.

Style, but safe style only.

French fashion Special 2 - do it Paris like Chanel

2008-12-21T17:21:00.013Z

Cigarette-cut trousers, cropped bobs, a french actress once the face of Chanel and a french director: the French are so keen on their cinema - and their classic fashion - they are making yet another Coco Chanel film.

"Coco Chanel et Igor Stravinsky" staring Anna Mouglalis as Coco, should be released in April 2009.

The film is based on a novel by Chris Greenhalgh, Coco and Igor.

It is a romantic uptake on Coco Chanel and composer Igor Stravinsky's fiery fascination for each other. The producer, Jan Kounen, said it would be a film about desire, love and passion - Oulala!

Anna Mouglalis is going to rival Audrey Tautou and it could be a tie: both actresses appear to be a perfect fit for the role of fashion designer giant.

This could well suggest that Coco-style is the next French trend to follow.

The french Elle rates cigarette trousers as the trend of the winter - all very 1913 - and the magazine is full of ways in which to work it.

If you want a chic Parisian look this season try it with a tailored jacket, a bowler hat and Derby shoes. Very French, Madame.

I have yet to verify this trend rumour and see if all these items are actually lining shop displays (French stores are prohibited by law to open on Sundays), but I promise a full report on the french high street shops tomorrow.

French fashion Special 1 - France's next hot model

2008-12-20T19:22:00.014Z

After a slight delay - I missed my flight yesterday - I am finally in France for a short holiday.

I decided to do a three-days-special on French Fashion.

I went through a bunch of magazines this afternoon and I came across an up-and-coming French model who seems like she could be big (not literally of course).

For starters, the 16 year old winner of the Elite Model Look 2007 contest, has a charming name and a stunning body. She moves in a very suave way, connecting with movement, every drop-points of the clothes she is wearing.
Adama Diallo could be the next Naomie Campbell - a la french.

She catwalked for Vivienne Westwood's Spring/Summer 2009 show, which is not an unnoticeable start for someone who has not even started to worry about her GCSEs.

She has got a really peculiar face, and she takes very special care of it (with mostly Chanel products). In an interview she admitted to always have a mirror on her, so that when someone looks at her quaintly she can check why.

Her features are striking, probably because her mouth is set in a continuous pulped pout. she has high eyebrows, high cheekbones and a roundish face - it could be baby fat, let's face it the girl in still in her best teenage years.

In short, she has more than a few elements of the new face: large lips, rounder face and slightly tabular features. It's all very lush.

To be honest, Adama is fascinating, especially when walking down a runway. She's beautifully odd - which, in modeling is the key to success - a little like an exotic bird with peacock feathers stuck on top of her own.

Natalia Vodianova and her fellow supermodels might well look out for this new sweet face.

Top Shop is deemed Wagalicious by Cheryl Cole

2008-12-19T21:06:00.006Z

As it turns out I haven't been completely missing the fashion point by reading about the fascinating lives of Wags (yes, I have read the sequel A WAG Abroad as well and it actually is a really hilariously entertaining read).

Cheryl Cole, who does fit Alison Kervin's description of a superb Wag - tikka massala colour, impressive hair, even larger breasts and tight clothing - could be on her way to launch her own line.

After meeting with Kate Moss, she reportedly said she wanted to get into high fashion and the two girls started making plans.

The model-improvised-designer is rumoured to be in negotiations with Sir Philip Green to include her new Girls Aloud friend to work with Kate on her own Top Shop range.

I doubt there will be much designing, it will probably be an all-day-long window shopping job for the two fashion-fans.

Top Shop is betting on celebrities in an attempt to reach out to the high street customer (and not unsuccessfully it must be said if we take into account the Kate Moss collection still raises furies from fashion buyers).

It is a reasonable marketing plan, however it will probably mean another notch lost in high-fashion credibility for the store.

Hopefully the full stiletto, boob tube and lager Wagalicious-style does not perspire too much into the range; if the project ever sees the light of Oxford Street.

Travel fashion

2008-12-18T21:23:00.004Z

I'm taking the plane to go to France tomorrow which raised a major fashion issue: what do you wear while traveling?

It's an easy enough question when you are flying first class, have a taxi to drive you to the airport in time, and own a stunning designer luggage to catch the eye, but what about when you are flying with Ryanair?

First the obvious, avoid tight clothing, shoes over 5inches (for obvious reasons) and laced shoes - mostly because with airport security you will have to take them on and off at least five times before boarding.

Airports are curious places, everyone dresses in a particular way while traveling. It's never about tracksuits and comfy - it's a middle-ground fashion, maybe because you want to look good for the person waiting for you at the arrival.

Something warm is also a sound idea, because no matter what they say, once you are hovering at 13 000ft above the ground its freezing cold.

I am opting for comfy military-style ankle boots (I could run a race and win in these), shinny leggings and an oversize woolen jumper.

Now all I will have to do is perfect my on-the-go-make-up skills tomorrow morning if i don't want to be late for the airport shuffle ...

Designers branch out for Christmas

2008-12-17T11:02:00.013Z

It is the last week till Christmas, everyone should be rushing around Central to gather the last few gifts to put under the tree.

Except for designers who have been busy concocting Christmas trees for charity.

Zaha Hadid, Louis Vuitton, Miguel Adrover, and Jean Paul Gaultier, put their hands to the trees that went up for auction last week, after Paris's architecture museum was transformed in a holiday tree-shop.

Don't expect your regular pine tree though, the structures were more inspirational than traditional. Dazzling non the less.

Trees seem to be a popular structure to design this year, with Gareth Pugh creating a "modern seasonal celebratory symbol" for the new Westfield TopShop in London last month.

Lacking the minimum £40 000 Zaga Hadid's tree went for, I will be keeping to my mini-black, charity-shop tree this year. At least it isn't green: tradition with a twist is the new Christmas.

a WAG'S style

2008-12-15T18:07:00.004Z

Ok so, this is going to be a slight digression from fashion, but I have a confession to make: I am reading a WAG book... The WAG's Diary by Alison Kervin.

Hear me out: I got the book free with Glamour a while ago and although it is far from being my usual literary choice, I though why not? It looks ligh-hearted and funny, and I was in dire need of distraction.

I have to admit that even though it is quite heavy writing (not in a Dostoevsky kind of way, but thick and sticky, like too many coats of lipstick), it has some really funny lines. I have to admit it is an amazing parody of WAGS.

It is all about (unnaturally) orange-coloured skin, see-through skirts, cropped tops, blond extentions that threaten to fall out at every moment of the day and make-up: coats of make-up.

To be honest I don't know much about the subject so I am set to research a little more about the subculture before I post what I find.

Meanwhile there are two short extract from the book - Tracie Martin, the mainWAG-character of the story is an online WAG handbook:

SUNTANS
Remember the Wag mantra: Wags can be orange, they can be caramel, but they CANNOT be white. If you feel your skin colour is heading towards white, or even cream or vanilla, it is important to get yourself spray-tanned as a matter of urgency.

DRINKING FOR WAGS
The question is, can you drink if you're a Wag? The answer is, most definately, YES: 99.4 per cent of your nutrition should come from champagne or Bacardi Breezers. (...) The key skill to learn is to be able to continue to walk in eight-inch heels while on the wrong side of a crate of vodka. No collapsing into the gutter or trying to get off with the doorman. You're a Wag now ... Hold your head up - throw your hair extentions back and walk towards the car without being sick all over the paparazzi.

Maison Martin Margiela wigs out

2008-12-13T14:02:00.012Z

Margiela s/s show 2009

Last night, in Bruton Street, London, conceptual fashion fans were having a Wizard-of-Oz-like minimalist party.

Picture the scene: waiters serving you candyfloss in the street, a path of tabi-toed footprints and a rather empty room with white, helium-filled balloons, clustering the ceiling.

That, Ladies and Gentlemen, was Maison Martin Margiela inaugurating its new London main store.

To contribute to the faceless randomness of the brand, Margiela released a fashion dance film, Make Up Your Mind.

Imagine an eerie dancing picture of naked women, with stocking-covered faces, and a blond-wig coat.

Definitely worth watching - the designer (who collaborated with Nick Knight for the footage) has an amazing way of presenting Anti-fashion fashion.

Sienna's Fashion Week new hot ticket

2008-12-12T21:37:00.007Z

Sienna Miller has been all over the news lately for her affair with Balthazar Getty - the on/offs of celebrity privacy poured over to the public by the raging paparazzi.

But regardless of the infamous gossip, Sienna seems decided to be back in the media's eye for something that, in my opinion, is of more public interest than her smooching a billionaire.

Twenty8Twelve, hers and her sister Savannah Miller's fashion label, is scheduled to make it's catwalk debut at the upcoming London Fashion Week in February.

On the provisional fashion week schedule released today, her label was charted to show on Sunday 22 February - just a hit for those who want to get their hands on the hot ticket.

The label started in 2007, and it has not been unsuccessful with the stockists.

They have some strong pieces and the collection could be a pleasant surprise. In my opinion it still lacks that sparkle, a little like a Cappuccino with no chocolate on top.

To be fair it has to be said, the Miller sisters' designs are a modern classy wardrobe with an edge with makes it an excellent city-wear choice.

Also, the price tag is much friendlier to the eye than say, the - however dazzling - dVb Victoria dresses.

Flap your capes

2008-12-11T17:56:00.009Z

Picture it: you are about to step in inside an icicle (an average British winter) and you're wrapped up like a Christmas present - gloves, hat, double tights, thigh-high socks, tight cardigan, jacket, etc. All items on the check list have been ticked.

Now, imagine for a minute that you are a superhero, what key signature piece of clothing did you forget?

Unless you are Catwoman - and in this case all the leather and PVC does the job - you could not imagine facing the world without a cape.

I am fully aware that capes are often assimilated with men wearing underwear over neon tights - and even though AF Vandervost did the 'underwear as outerwear' look in sexy creamy tones at the last shows, this is not what I am suggesting you do: I am a fan but it is far too cold to think of playing with under-layers at the moment.

Cover ups however are needed in any shape or form, and capes could well become the new coat.

They are shorter than your average musketeer or 16th century floaty cape, and more shapely.

I know that capes are by nature thinner than a fur coat, and I am addicted to warmth just as the next person, but I like to believe winter can be more stylish than wool bulging coats and hand-knit scarves.

Capes add structure to the silhouette, and with the superstructure trends lurking about, it will not look out of place.

New Look has a military style cape and Acne does a cape dress.

They are also not as breezy as we would imagine - it is true you might need to add an extra thin jumper under your jacket, but overall a layer is a layer. And if it is a stylish layer all the better.

Fashion humour: The Harry Potter signature spectacles

2008-12-10T14:15:00.000Z

I was re-watching some Luella shows yesterday and I noticed a preponderant accessory in her Spring 2008 catwalk, that I cannot believe I missed before: the geeky spectacles.

We all know about glasses, they are hard to play with. They can be sexy in a secretary-style look, or downright horrendous.

It's very tricky to find a pair that fit your complexion, bone structure, haircut and character. Everyone who ever had to wear them as a child will agree.

So why bring back some of the worst spectacles ever created?

Large black frames do not fit many people, no matter how gorgeous your features - it a shape that does not work well. It tends to sharply break down the face and drown the nose and eyes under plastic rims while taking the focus away from the mouth. Thus creating a Picasso effect.

I understand Geek Chic, how it was tweaked to add some dangerous sexiness into the trend. It can look dazzling and Luella like Paul Smith, work it really well.

It is also perfect as an everyday look, this is partly why it was so successful last autumn and spring (and it is still around in the streets).

However the Harry Potter glasses are an anarchy-statement too far. It surely does make a assertion but maybe not the right one.

I think fashion has a great sense of humour and sometimes, certain pieces must be taken as just that. Not everything on the runway is meant to be worn.

Fur silhouettes

2008-12-08T17:00:00.001Z

There are a lot of fringed and fur coats all over London.

Today is not the first time I notice a particular silhouette that winter only accentuates: oversize upper-body wear.

Especially as fur is the new way of keeping warm in glamorous hippy-chic style.

Love it or hate it, it is the new texture.

No need to have real fur of course, but it is true it adds some statement to a coat. And most importantly it keeps you warm and snug.

The binge drinking anti-style

2008-12-07T13:10:00.000Z

Just something I found fun. Most of you must have seen it but I have no TV.
I thought it was quite appropriate after that trash party I went to yesterday.

I did not finish in that state by the way!

Disco trash party look

2008-12-06T16:17:00.000Z

Tonight I am going to a 'disco/trash' birthday party, which means I need to dress accordingly.

Who is on top of the trash look?

Well, there obviously was Courtney Love, anything punk in the 70s, Britney Spears during her downfall, Amy Winehouse. And these are only a few.

The trash look comes from the 1970s, as an anti-authority, anti-decency with a 'dress - or often, undress - to shock'.

It is all about micro shorts, torn fishnet tights, tattoos, a no-bra (or no t-shirt) policy and smudged make-up.

Courtney Love seems the most appropriate to copy for the occasion - well to an extent anyways.

I am not quite as brave with the indecency though, so I might conjoin the trickiest trend of the season - skin-tight shinny nylon leggings - with an 80s buckle-belt and call it Olivia Newton John in Grease.

It's always good to be able to try a trend in a party environment before wearing it during the day. So be it for the leggings.

Posh takes Selfridges by storm

2008-12-05T21:31:00.005Z

Victoria Beckham is everywhere, on magazine covers, all over the news and in Selfridges...

Well, her dVb dress collection was anyways. That is, before a bunch of angry fashion-avid shoppers ripped the hangers bare.

By 3pm, only three of the 58 dresses purchased exclusively by Selfridges were left dangling on the rail.

The dresses are breathtaking, even with a price tag of about £1800.

Posh's influence in fashion is only beginning. She knows her fashion lesson and she is intent on showing it.

She told the Times: 'Being in the Spice Girls, fashion-wise probably didn't open any doors. If anything it shut doors and I've had to bang them down.'

Doors have been banged down (if only those of Selfridges), and in a month, Harrods' doors better beware as the range is going on sale internationally.

Victoria almost rivals Anna Wintour in terms of immaculate, perfectionist style and determination. The devil knows what these women will do with fashion next.

All I can say is that I can't wait to see.

The new hand: fingerless gloves and dazzling colours

2008-12-04T21:18:00.011Z

Gloves are the new hands.

They are everywhere in all shapes and forms: they are the new accessory of the winter, and designers have declined them from classical to crazy.

They go from John Galliano red suede to Miu Miu's frilled leather pair to some puffy sleeves on eBay.

What most of them have in common: they are fingerless.

To me this means nail varnish.

After all, if the hand is covered the nails stand out even more, and it is a perfect excuse to match the nail varnish to the bold colours of the rest of the accessories.

It is also easier than trying on fluo eye shadows and it adds a personal touch to winter styles.

Burgundy and bright red are in vogue, but it is easy to break the mould and go for something dazzling.

Chanel does marine blue and gold. Bright green, yellow, clementine and myriads of other colours are easy to find cheaply at Camden market or smaller stores.

Let's beat the cold with (layers of) statement tights

2008-12-03T20:18:00.009Z

I am making the bet that all the elaborate hosiery trends are really going to take off next Spring.

Not before, and especially not during the last mile before Christmas.

Knee-high socks might be spared because they are easy to accommodate with any pair of thick leggings, or even jeans.

They are a great way of adding a smudge of colour to a dark winter outfit - and colour lifts the mood.

Fancy print and lace tights however, are in danger of becoming winter-extinct.

Mostly, because they are too thin to protect against the cold.

And unless you work in an Caribbean-beach-like warm office and you have a taxi to shelter you from the frost and wind while traveling from point A to point B, they are often not worth a month with the sniffles.

The way out is to wear them over a pair (or two) of skin coloured tight. Because let's admit it, they look fantastic.

Statement tights however might be the solution

A lot of brands have opaque statement tights: they are thicker which rhymes with warmer.

Opaque also means it is easy to wear another pair underneath, without them having to be paper-thin and skin coloured.

And of course there are all the patent, PVC, shiny or leather imitation leggings.

Even ice-age temperatures cannot stop a girl to show off some leg from underneath woolen trenches.

DIY: maybe not for me...

2008-12-02T19:57:00.006Z

Vivienne Westwood does it all the time to perfection, but with novice seamstress skills, turning a shower curtain into a wearable party dress might not be the best idea...

With the credit crunch, DIY fashion is the new craze.

It is true that, to some extent CIY (Craft it Yourself) does work – adding a few feathers and buttons to a plain black cotton t-shirt can sometimes give you a cool Art Student, edgy, Agyness Deyn-like style.

But most of the time DIY looks a little too much... well, DIY.

Also, the style does not particularly fit the party season: it only works for you if you already have that 'I can pull of anything, I could not care less' kind of look.

It is also time consuming: for non-expert hands, giving that dusty LBD a makeover could well take up until Christmas.

At least...

Other options

For those who, like me, prefer well-cut numbers with a DIY touch and a reassuring label. It might be worth considering the high street stores.

I am not talking about poor, sequined, runway-imitations. There are some luxurious party dresses that cost less than £70.

A Zara lace dress, very close to the Prada collection, has a smile-inducing price tag of £49. And you can get a Giambattista Valli-inspired, red ruffled cocktail dress, for only £55 from Next.

If you think about all the five pound notes used to buy textiles, ribbons and buttons, the plain cotton black dress that probably cost £20 and the lost hours fighting a stubborn sewing machine, maybe fighting a crowd in Central London might not be that bad after all.

Festive Rykiel

2008-11-30T18:32:00.008Z

Paris is going stripy for the festive season with the Les Arts Decoratifs (Paris's Decorative Arts Museum) teaming up with French designer, Sonia Rykiel, to create fashionable gifts.

The display windows are set up with myriads of items, from a teddy bear to sequin bags, all in limited edition.

The Museum is celebrating its 40th birthday by showcasing the Sonia Rykiel Exhibition (running from the 20th of November to the 19th of April 2009).

The Queen of Knitwear invented the "un-fashion" by working in favour of women's individual personality.

The exhibition follows Rykiel's signature styles: lace, stripes, rhinestones, black and slouchy pantsuits to name but a few.

If you are in Paris for the festive season, it is well worth checking it out. It could make for an original Christmas present.

The Devil does not wear Prada

2008-11-29T21:10:00.011Z

Yesterday, London-born, American fashion Royalty Anna Wintour, met the head of British Royalty at Buckingham Palace.

As an early Christmas present, the head of fashion bible Vogue, was named in the Queen's 2008 Birthday Honours for services to the industry.

The fashion Queen was appointed Officer of the Order of the British Empire for services to the industry.

Wintour was beaming at the honour.

The perfectionist editor showed off her impeccable dress sense, as she paused to show off her award in a Chanel suit straight off the autumn/winter 2008 catwalk.

Although she rules American and International fashion she always remembers her creative roots. She once said:

"People constantly make the mistake of comparing London with New York, Milan and Paris and that's not what it's about. London has its own fashion identity. You come to London to find the next Alexander McQueen or John Galliano,"

Stephen Jones, The Outstanding Milliner

2008-11-27T21:48:00.001Z

Milliner extraordinaire, Stephen Jones, received this year's Outstanding Achievement Award at the BFAs on Tuesday.

It seems only right that he should wear the crown: Stephen Jones is a master in his craft.

On the night, Suzy Menkes, Fashion Editor of the International Herald Tribune commented:

'There are only a few people from any given generation in fashion who transform the territory and Stephen is one of those. His work often defies categorisation and surpasses imagination - his hats inhabit that rarefied land where fashion meets art.'

The statement says it all: Stephen Jones and hats have enjoyed a winning 30year old working relationship.

He has contributed to British fashion in a unique and innovative way, working with Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood, Comme des Garcons and Marc Jacobs to name only a few.

The skilled hatter has also turned to films from Elizabeth, The Golden Age, Atonement and more currently, Coco avant Chanel.

This is one man who we hope will never stop designing.

What is sure, is that the next fashion week (to be held in February 2009) will be all about hats: the V&A is awaiting the event to present ‘Hats: An Anthology by Stephen Jones'.

Creme of Fashion: The British Fashion Awards 2008

2008-11-26T09:47:00.000Z

Yesterday Jourdan Dunn was crowned model of the year, Luella Bartley was named Designer of the year and Louise Goldin was offered the Swarovski Emerging Talent Awards for ready-to-wear.

But the 2008 British Fashion Awards did not only make for speeches and new talent.

It is fashion, which means a party to celebrate style talent is about who wore what.

First of all, there was Jourdan Dunn's white knitted Stella McCartney dress, and Luella was in her own lilac designs.

There were some interesting choices but overall the awards lacked the eccentricity of other creme-of-fashion parties.

The best style must have been Stephen Jones who wore his black crown all evening after being crowned for Outstanding Achievement In Fashion Design by Erin O'Connor.

The full list of the winners:

DESIGNER OF THE YEAR: Luella Bartley

OUTSTANDING ACHIEVEMENT IN FASHION DESIGN: Stephen Jones

ACCESSORY DESIGNER: Rupert Sanderson

MENSWEAR DESIGNER: Christopher Bailey for Burberry

MODEL OF THE YEAR: Jourdan Dunn

RED CARPET DESIGNER: Matthew Williamson

SPECIAL AWARD FOR BESPOKE: Richard James

ISABELLA BLOW AWARD FOR FASHION CREATOR: Tim Walker

DESIGNER BRAND: Jimmy Choo

SWAROVSKI EMERGING TALENT AWARD ACCESSORIES: Nicholas Kirkwood

SWAROVSKI EMERGING TALENT AWARD READY TO WEAR: Louise Goldin

Hat it up: the new hair

2008-11-25T21:48:00.003Z

I spent the weekend in Brighton and it made me realise the importance of hats.

First of all, the temperature dropped to some ice-age digits, which meant that even though I do not usually wear winter hats, my ears did not leave me the choice.

Luckily I had thoughtfully packed a black woolen hat.

I am not the first one to be taken by the trend, Samantha Ronson never goes out without a hat, and in Brighton it seems to be just as popular as seagulls and gale (the gale might actually be the reason for wearing hats).

Hats and hair accessories are making a huge breakthrough in fashion, from tiaras to bowler hats or fur caps and hoods.

It's nothing like eighties or nineties hats with an excess of feathers, pearls and other decorations.

The purpose of the hats have changed: hats are not to cover the head so much as an accessorise statement.

The best of all is that they match everything, I am personally looking forward to increasing my collection.

Avoiding the chill in style: winter coats

2008-11-21T14:04:00.008Z

There is no escaping it now, winter has arrived and autumn jackets no longer suffice to block out the chill.

Winter coats are everywhere in magazines at this time of the year. It is all about the 10 best buys, or the 10 cheapest warm coats.

However people stay away from statement coats. The catwalks are full of them but it is easier to pull off a Russian inspired, encrusted coat with fur trims, when you are wearing it inside for the eyes of the camera.

It looks gorgeous but is it warm enough? A winter coat must not be on the bulky or the heavy side (unpractical when living in London and the top layer goes on/off/on/off as you move from bitter cold to overheated tube station).

I hate having to hide under layers and layers of jumpers and wool until I look more like a sheep than a person.

I personally would hibernate if I had the choice.

Unfortunately - and I am not the only one - I cannot stay indoors all day feeding on steaming drinks and radiators. But I cannot walk out looking like a grizzly either.

So what is the magical solution to all of this?

I power-layer - some days it goes up to five.

It is only a matter of finding thin but warm under-layers, then adding a jumper and finishing off with a large woolen dress cinched at the waist. Over that of course comes your habitual autumn coat or warm jacket.

If that sounds a little uncomfortable (it all depends if you are used to loose clothing or not), the statement fake-fur coat is the best option: it's OK if it's bulky, it was styled to look that way.

It is also a perfect way to show off legs in quirky tights.

A day at TiGi

2008-11-20T16:12:00.006Z

After 5 hours of head nudging, mild colour burns and intoxication due to inhaling too much hair spray, I am finally free to show off my new cut and let out some of the hair and beauty gossip I overheard (as a hair model for TiGi you hear a lot while your hair suffers hardship for - free - beauty).

A lot of people go for a haircut when the colder months start. It is probably the shorter days and the chill that make us crave that little extra confidence.

Also, hair is the tip of your style-iceberg: it is the only paranetre that stands out from under a huge warm but often boring, winter coat.

Like shoes, hair creates style

Hair is all about personality this season. Nick Irwin, TiGi's European creative director was saying that many clients ask for a lot of warm shades at the moment.

The reason for this come from the catwalks: multicoloured eye make-up has been taking centre stage lately, but it's harder to pull off a cyan blue mask on an every day basis (unless your life revolves around rave club nights...), so hair is the easy option.

There is also the return of the classic cut with a quirky edge: a lot of new trend revolve around structural, almost sculpted designs. Vidal Sassoon invented the sharp cut in the late 1950s/early 1960s, and like everything in fashion, it is coming back.

With haircuts, outdated is irrelevant.

I went for a short cut with an 80s vibe and dark warm colours - there is no denying that red is on top of the game at the moment. Three of the models asked for some shade of fire in their hair today.

The conclusion of my day: an excruciatingly long wait - the good thing is that I had time to read Vogue from cover to cover - a quirky look and free hair smoothing products.

What has a girl got to complain about!

Alice in Wonderland goes Gothic for Burton

2008-11-18T20:17:00.014Z

So, word is out that Tim Burton is planning a new Alice in Wonderland film and there is NO ROOM to express my excitement!

Alice in Wonderland has always been my all-time favourite story, I have probably read it a hundred times and I have seen the Disney version a bazillion times at least... I even shamefully admit knowing the caterpillar sing-song by heart.

Not only is it brilliant literature, with dark connotations and fabulous tongue-twisters, it is tremendous fun.

But the most exhilarating thing about all of this is the cast: Anne Hathaway, Angela Bonham Carter and JOHNNY DEPP.

Tim Burton's designs are mind-blowing: it's almost like a catwalk show wrapped up in a Gothic tale.

The first shot of Johnny Depp as the Mad Hatter is tea-tastic (it is not an official picture, so it might be fan art, but it still gives a pretty good idea of what is to come).

Dark, but that is Burton's signature style. I simply cannot wait for the film to be released.

OK, it's true that 2010 is still a long way away and it might be a little early for the effervescence, but a girl can wait if the reward is Alice in Gothic Wonderland - well I can.

Shoulder it up

2008-11-16T21:30:00.012Z

I watched Blade Runner yesterday.

Because I am not a technologically driven person, I directed my attention to something else that never fails to amuse me in old-school 80s Science fiction films: shoulder pads.

It probably does not help that my very first memory of them is a vivid flowery suit my mother wore to a wedding.

It might have been the fact that the pattern designed devoted him/herself to squeezing-in every single possible shade of colour on that tiny piece of material, that made such an impact on my 5-year-old self.

Or the fact that my petite mother suddenly appeared out of proportion with lilliputian legs and large angular shoulders...

In any case, I have ended up dreading shoulder pads and, as a result, I have always wondered why they took so long to fall out of fashion.

Power dressing

The desirable effect of power dressing was to attract attention and respect - think of Margaret Thatcher.

It started in 1980s and meant business: an unchaperoned woman wearing a suit became a feminist subtle way of saying: "hands off!"

Power suits are an important victory in the war against sexism. However, I can't help being thankful for the decreasing size of shoulder pads in the 1990s.

The problem with shoulder pads is that once they became out and accepted (that happened fairly rapidly), there was no way of getting rid of them.

They keep coming back

True, not as wide or sharp sharp-cornered, but undeniably present.

It is not necessarily a bad thing: after all, padded shoulders make a sloppy posture appear straighter and they give definition to small shoulders.

I am still a defender of the natural shoulder though (blame it on the 80s suit trauma). I think small shoulders are sexy: they elongate the figure, instead of creating a heavy emphasis on the upper body.

But, to be fair, it really comes down to which shape suits your body best.

I want to look like a cyborg

2008-11-15T23:24:00.006Z

I watched the strangest movie tonight, about a girl with bleached eyebrows who believes herself to be a cyborg.

The Korean actress, Su-jeong Lim, is stunning and I am a cyborg but it's OK is incredible:

Not only because of the randomness of the film and the storyline, but also because of the aesthetic of it all.

Which made me think: after being taken by the pale, milky ginger complexion yesterday, I am now in awe of the Korean features.

I didn't know anything about beauty the Korean way so I did a bit of research. This is what it is all about:

a milky complexion
sculpted features
large eyes

Su-jeong Lim certainly has all of that.

The interesting thing is the similarities between red-heads and the Korean beauty standards. It is the freakish fascination for peroxide features on one side, and the imitation of European complexions on the other.

Karen Elson and the cyborg actress could almost swap over.

I think the issue needs more investigation... I promise an update as soon as I find out more about it.

A twice-queenly statement: tartan and carrot-tops

2008-11-14T21:35:00.008Z

Today at lunch, I had a model-scout-like revelation: my ravenous attention was distracted by a carrot-top.

No, nothing to do with vegetables, I found myself staring at a tall thin ginger girl: not particularly beautiful but striking.

And since everyone seems to be going to the hairdresser at the moment, why not try copper?

Red-heads being the ugly-ducklings is ancient history, not since Elisabeth I has translucide skin, invisible eyebrows and tangerine hair been celebrated.

Orange haired models and celebrities have been everywhere over the last years, from the breathtaking Tilda Swinton to Lily Cole who's trademark is her fiery-fall of hair.

British Vogue interviewed red queen, Karen Elson, in their Glorious September 2008 issue about the red phenomenon; and model agencies are reported to be encouraging carrot-tops to come forward.

The strangely pale creatures are up for fashion domination.

I cannot pinpoint it but there is something arresting about red-heads - something about their almost erased, complexions. Maybe it is the bone structure or the fact the definition of their features gets lost in a milky skin.

When I found myself staring, I realised I was so dumstrucked by this carrot-girl because she reminds me of Queen Elisabeth (or at least the stately idea I have forged of her, as I cannot claim to have met the woman).

So it all revolves around the queen as style icon after all: I might have to go out and buy a tartan suit to match the hair - and the royal airs of the season...

H&M is trying it haute with Comme des Garcons

2008-11-13T15:54:00.014Z

We have seen the advertisements everywhere, and since yesterday the Comme des Garcons collection is finally in store. The high street is trying for haute, starting with H&M, and failing.

I am not trying to suggest that the Japanese label is doing a mediocre job at trying to radicalise the lower high-street. Rei Kawakubo could not be dull if her life depended on it.

But it is simple maths: you cannot go fashion forward and anarchic if the available funds for an outfit that originally costs £500 are divided by 10.

Anyways, the truth is we don't usually go to Oxford street to buy clothes which are experimental, chaotic and downright futuristic.

Much less to H&M where a dumbed down pret-a-porter piece, costing under a tenner, is usually expected.

I am not denying there is a craze for high-end-fashion imitation, at affordable prices (the most expensive Comme des Garcons for H&M, is a £199 dress - not bad for a designer that is far from, even occasionally, affordable).

But doesn't all of this kill the whole dynamics of the fashion business? Not to talk about the aesthetics of a middle-of-the-street design.

Comme des Garcons is a revolutionary label that exaggerates shape, cut and colour to style new silhouettes.

Kawakubo's collections are undoubtedly attention-grabbing, but it is a tough job to fish out wearable pieces from her shows.

Unless you are into cobalt blue ruffled bloomers, asymmetrically layered trench-coats in clashing motifs or dresses with origami cut-out legs, as an everyday style.

That is the main difference between high and haute: wearability. (And costs of production.)

The problem with designer mass production, is that with price restrictions, original collections suffer.

What's the use of owning a Comme des Garcons piece, if it doesn't look anything like the brand signature style, the material is poor and the cut only half as good as a Top Shop piece?

Of course, if I had three wishes I would use one of them to make high fashion available to my scorched bank account. A girl can always dream!

But the dismal fashion reality is that experimentation needs money - the kind of money, we poor folks that dress in H&M don't have.

But that is not a reason to feed us mediocre, supposed high-end couture.

A cheap find can look just as stylish (and in this case much more distinguished) as a designer dumbed-down polka shorts and low-crotch trousers (by the way, I do not recommend those to anyone).

Bring Thierry Mugler back

2008-11-12T15:27:00.014Z

As a true child of the eighties, when I hit nine years old, my life ambition was to get enough money to buy a Thierry Mugler shiny, lilac, puffy jacket.

20 years later, the man behind top-heavy, extreme fantastical-fashion is nowhere to be seen. But his influence is certainly still structurally and adventurously felt: think vampires, aliens in PVC and angels squeezed into metal corsets.

I have to admit I am so thankful for the possibility of an 80s variety revival, I am only hoping that it will hit the high-street soon enough…

London is so dull this winter it is time to structure it up. I find it so depressing to come home when it's dark outside, the only outstanding outfit in the tube is an oversize woollen scarf, and the only colour to be seen is the odd citrus-green beret.

Giles makes dresses with satin-ribbon ruffles, Madeira has rigid snow-queen dresses, and why not invest in a winter-garden-style balloon dress (Celine) - they are hard to wear but they will liven up your day if chosen carefully.

As long as it's sparkling and makes a statement, it’s good to go.

I don’t know if it’s me being too sentimental over the Thierry Mugler pieces I never owned, but I always get nostalgic for an 80s eccentricity.

The Christmas party-dress quest

2008-11-10T21:59:00.007Z

I don't understand the craze that comes with the countdown to Christmas. I have always found party dresses hideous and Christmas depressing.

Firstly it is cold - in a such a chilling way, that even with two pairs of tights, wearing a skirt is a challenge.

Secondly it's pitch dark outside by the time you finish a late lunch, and drinking coffee when it feels like you should be in bed with a cup of tea messes with my body clock.

Last but not least, kitsch decorations are everywhere: from the streets, to cafes, to dresses.

Yet, the the quest for the party dress of the year - that will be thrown at the back of a shoe cupboard after having cost a whooping £80 (if you're lucky) - is inevitable.

This season's dress

The good news is that everything goes this season: it is all about statement pieces.

So, whether you prefer winter florals, oversize, (Giles' pom pom coat is a good place to start) or decorative (Christian Lacroix created some sumptuous pieces, perfect for a detailed glossy look), there will always be something for everyone.

The only rule is: short.

It seems that designers are not in favour of a below-the-knee party dress this season. And it probably is all for the better. With all the eye-catching hosiery to be found legs are guaranteed to look dazzling.

Coco Avant Chanel

2008-11-09T18:27:00.011Z

The French love their films and everyone loves Chanel.

This is why Coco Avant Chanel (Coco before Chanel) is on it's way to become the fashion film of 2009.

There is nothing more typically french than Audrey Tautou (Amelie) dressed as Coco Chanel.

And even if German Karl Lagerfeld is supervising the re-creation of certain clothes of the fashion house, the director, Anne Fontaine, is sure to keep the production in a French spirit while they are filming in Paris and Normandy.

The filming has started late, on the 15th of September, while the project was announced last May, and there is still no official release date (although it is expected to be late 2009).

However, the first production still is finally out, and the Amelie star looks stunning in a boyish suit and pose, that deliver well the strength of character of the woman who immortalised the little black dress and 'le smoking'.

Coco Chanel

Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel (1883-1971) was a pioneer of modern women's fashion. Born in Saumur, France, she was trained as a seamstress in a Catholic orphanage.

This is probably was unleashed her determination.

She introduced woman's sportswear in 1913. In a post-war atmosphere, she later brought menswear-inspired styles into the mainstream.

Coco Chanel understood from the beginning what feminism taught the world much later: women are supposed to dress for themselves, not for men.

Because it is a French film, it is reasonable to expect a lot of artistic shots, quite a heavy dose of glamour, style and of course romance.

It might also be a long wait before we finally see it on a screen...

On a lighter note...

2008-11-08T19:13:00.002Z

Just some amazing truths about gay marriage and people who stand against it. Wanda Sykes is incredible:

Special Post: Proposition 8 says YES to discrimination

2008-11-08T11:43:00.009Z

With a black American president newly elected we have heard a lot about breaking taboos.

However, on the same day that Obama was elected, Gay marriage was eliminated in the state of California.

Doesn't anyone feel there is something wrong about that?

A minority president is elected, and at the same time, his country suddenly regresses in terms of human rights by banning another minority from civil rights.

Proposition 8 was passed to change the Californian Constitution, that allowed same-sex marriage since 2000.

Gay rights have always been taboo, but it has been the same for black rights for centuries.

Wouldn't there be an global outrage if black people were taken away their right to vote?
Or if the right to woman being able to vote was abolished?

Gay rights are yet a rather new voice compared to other minorities, but it would make more sense to support discriminated minorities in that 'time of change' brought by the election of President Obama.

Proposition 8 is not only a disgraceful regression of the state on basic human rights, it also poses many questions about the security of change.

If gay marriage can be eliminated from one day to the next, buried under a pretence of taboo breaking (with the election of the first black American president), it shows how fragile are the small battles that have been won.

If no one hears about this, it means the basic human rights we take for granted could be taken away any second.

Look me in the eye: JCC's fashion humour

2008-11-07T19:28:00.006Z

It is all about eye-catching fashion at the moment and Jean Charles de Castelbajac seems to be the new en vogue designer.

His yellow Obama dress caused uproar as well as admiration, during the presidential campaign.

Celebrities, however, love his quirky, daring designs.

Yesterday, Katy Perry took the JCC daring look to the public gaze at the MTV Europe Music Awards in Liverpool.

The designer's satin, cobalt blue pencil dress did not fail to draw attention, especially at the singer's breasts that showed off a literally eye-catching bust-line detail.

A risky move, but at least it shows fashion can have a sense of humour. Even if JCC's pieces can sometimes give out a bit too much of a flashy Disneyland feel.

Fashion Network Spy

2008-11-06T17:04:00.006Z

With my classic little black dress and 5inch heel-boots I only keep for such occasions, I headed off to my first fashion networking event yesterday.

The event, hosted in Shed, Bank, by Deanna Rubiano was a perfect excuse for strawberry mojitos, limo-heels and dress-to-impress styles.

Glamorous and strange, to say the least.

There were some really interesting pieces though, from a frilled corset worn over leather leggings, to a teaming of fluo, pink and blue dress, with patent tights.

The aim of a fashion networking event is to get drunk in style (with outrageously expensive cocktails and wine) and exchange business cards.

The venue was perfect though, with white sofas and a stylish modern decor.

The people were even more interesting: ranging from actresses, to photographers, to film producers, to the occasional glamour model hoping to be scouted.

All and all a good night, I am waiting for the photos now...

Time to break the myth of 'the French Fashion Style'

2008-11-05T07:22:00.011Z

People keep assuming that the French have the best fashion sense in the world.

It is true that they are renowned for their Haute-Couture houses and The 'Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne' (the Association of Haute Couture Houses), created in 1868, still rules the Couture world.

Every year a Paris based commission declares which houses are eligible to showcase collections under the term 'Haute Couture'.

All this because Paris was undeniably the epicenter of high fashion for centuries, ever since the sublime extravagences of the Court of King Louis XIV (1638-1715).

In the 18th Century, Marie Antoinette had a Fashion Minister, and her dress sense was celebrated and copied everywhere in Europe.

But since then, it has all gone downhill...

The average French person has no idea who designs for Dior.

It is not that the French lack class as a nation, but in terms of wardrobe, it is a little bit limited. The typical young french person has the choice between three main styles:

The laid-back classic: jeans, a black/grey/brown top, and black shoes - pumps or 2in heels max mostly.
The fake seventies hippie with: large cotton trousers, a large cotton formless top, formless cotton bag and trainers or flip-flops. Dreadlocks are a must.
The urban Sportswear look: the french version of the Bronx hip-hop/rapper.

A little colourless?

That is another thing that french people resent: colour.

It is considered a crime to wear anything that isn't black, grey, brown or dark blue. Dark purple and a few other dark colours are accepted. As long as nothing is bright.

This is why the streets of Paris are, unlike the common notion, extremely dull.

After all even their top fashion houses employ designers from other countries. Think about John Galliano for Dior, Alexander McQueen for Givenchy (until 2001), or Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel.

Face the new beauties

2008-11-04T10:41:00.009Z

Forget Agyness Deyn for a minute: there are three new faces who are being introduced as the new Winter face.

Jourdan Dunn, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Eden Clark are all posing for the November issue of British Vogue.

"The three young models on the cover of this issue have been chosen specifically to showcase different types of good looks, possibly even beauty, in the autumn of 2008," writes editor Alexandra Shulman, for Vogue.com.

They have all kept their personal style while posing for the issue: Jourdan Dunn as the face of young cool black beauty, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley displaying a classic budding sexiness, and Eden Clark, a strong but fragile tomboy look.

The girls are striking, but I find their features a little too cool. It is always the same high cheekbones and full lips.

They have an undeniable fashion appeal, but their faces are not radically different. Jourdan Dunn has a street beauty look, that appeals to most, but I doubt she will revolutionise fashion photography.

Eden Clark however does have a particular face and piercing gaze that might well shoot her ahead of the rest.

Precisely because she does not look like anyone else. She is not beautiful in an obvious way, but she will make you turn your head more than twice if you pass her in the street.

Leg it up for Winter: Hoisiery trends

2008-11-03T20:21:00.007Z

After a rainy summer and a even rainier autumn, leg is finally on show.

Mini skirts were the trend for June, July and August but they only had a feeble chance at being seen.

However, Antarctic temperature are not such a bad things for our legs anymore.

Hosiery is set to play a big part in getting the key look for autumn winter.

Leggings and tights are overtaking the high-street: from orange to tartan, with spiderweb prints, retro designs or textures that range from PVC to sequin and leather.

They come in all colours and looks and the Olsen twins are already fan. And they are far from being the only ones.

The trend started on the catwalks with designers trying to give the sock and the tight a new twist.

In terms of accessorising the black, white and grey mini-dresses of the winter, everything goes: bright-coloured knee high socks will brighten up a classic dress, and patterned black tights will add some definition to an otherwise dull outfit.

More about leggings before taking the plunge:

Halloween facy-dress: Sexy, Scary or both

2008-11-01T14:16:00.008Z

Halloween parties seem to be the time of year when girls can wear the least amount of clothing possible, before being arrested by an anti-nudist brigade.

The excuse? Plastic devil horns or cats ears, that count as a disguise.

Sexy:
It's true that no one wants to look horrifying when going out. But they are some pretty wearable outfits that are not either or.

Fashion isn't particularly strict on decency. I personally think that a bubble extra-mini dress, or a see-through ruffle top, is totally acceptable if the cut allows it to look stylish.

The problem with Halloween dress-up outfits is that they look like a cheap version of fantasy sex clothes. That, makes them scary. But not in a thriller-like way.

Scary:
On the other hand, a zombie plastic mask and rags tainted with fake blood do not balance well with fashion.

First of all, it might be embarrassing (although, with the mask, no one will know it is you. However, chances are, no one will talk to you either).

Secondly, rags never flatter anyone. No matter how amazing your body is.

Both:
The best option is probably to keep to the theme but work it to your advantage. Winter allows for tights. With these, hot-pants, a stylish Romantic-style mini-dress and black make-up will probably look more sophisticated.

Especially this season, designers have showcased some revisited fancy dress pieces, making witches hats sexy and pumpkin-orange a first choice colour.

If only for one night.

Halloween's the excuse

2008-10-31T17:14:00.004Z

It's Halloween: the only day in the year when you can wear tomato red tights, dark purple lipstick, a skull-print mini-dress and orange sequin devil horns, and no one will even flinch. (Except maybe those with some colour coordination skills.)

But even on that blessed 'who-cares-about-style, let's-go-crazy' day, people don't really dress-up. Not during the day anyways.

The only really amazing outfit I have seen today was worn by a Goth, and it was probably her every day style.

Granted, Halloween is a little bit childish. Once past the age to ask for sweets (and at 21, my trick-and-treat days are well over), there seems to be little point in dressing up.

Also, it's not a British tradition. And let's face it: it's more fun to go trick or treating in an American suburban Neighbourhood decorated with pumpkins, than in a London tower-block.

That said, it still remains a great day to try on the new Soft Goth trend.

If the heavy jewelery and the jet-black lipstick just don't do the trick (unfortunately some things look great on the YSL catwalk but not on us), it's good to make a note of it on the day when it's OK to look scary.

Even if it wasn't the intended effect originally...

Designer's Halloween: Have your Pick

2008-10-30T18:16:00.010Z

It's Halloween tomorrow and if you still haven't picked your outfit, don't despair: the catwalks are full of inspiration, from scary to sexy romantic pieces.

Of course Gothic has taken as a trend this autumn, but Luella seems to have adopted Halloween as a fashion theme in its own right in her autumn/winter 2008/09 show.

Inspired by Pagan dress, puffy-sleeved blouses, pointy hats, orange tights and crepe hair are sure to make a magical impact this winter.

It's probably only a matter of time before the broomstick gets in style as well.

The collection makes you smile and does look like a trick and treat sassy hunt at times, but there were many wearable pieces to spot: the series of cocktail Gothic dresses with splashes of gold, worn with lace veils can really catch the eye in a snowy weather.

Whats more, the blue and coral red tartan shirts under mini black dresses make up a very sexy look.

It might be cautious to stay away from the elf hats as soon as the Halloween parties are over though. They are certain things that simply don't flatter, no matter how quirky they look on Alice Gibb.

For those who want a more 'classically spooky' outfit, Rodarte presented a whole range of cobweb tights, and a lot of designers showcased all things orange ranging from peach to tangerine to burnt orange.

Or you can go with Rosksanda Ilincic's satin floor-length gowns with geometrical cuts and wide-shoulder capes. Inspiring if you want to give the Dracula-lady look a modern twist.

Guide to surviving a Snowy London Birthday

2008-10-30T09:45:00.011Z

October is quite a hard styling month for me: Halloween is on its way, just following my birthday. And this year, to top it all off, it snowed.

What to wear on a snowy London birthday day

Birthday are always hard to style, because unfortunately life doesn't stop to make the day special for you. And unfortunately Weekend birthdays only happen once every 6 years or so.

This means you still have to drag yourself out of bed, on a cold morning, and deal with the 9am rush-hour. You might think it's OK to be late for work on that special day, but your employer probably won't.

Consequently, the painful (but gorgeous) stiletto shoes you bought as a pre-birthday present to yourself, are not the best option.

Especially when fate decides that London will have its first October snow since 1934.

Birthdays make you the centre of attention no matter what

It's a little bit like bumping into the most gorgeous human being the only day that you are wearing the tramp-like, I-can't-be-bothered-today, outfit.

People spend the day asking you what presents you got and usually, the answer is "none yet". Which can make you even more frustrated.

You can't look like you have thought this through too much

It's Halloween in a couple of days and you don't want people to think you're a little early with the fancy dress.

But you still want to look good when everyone starts singing the dreadful, embarrassing, "Happy birthday" song in front of the whole class or office, therefore directing all usually-non-caring eyes on you.

Survival tips

Consequently, the best way out of birthdays and to take the day off sick, receive all the lovely phone calls and messages from unknown friends who had disappeared from the surface of the earth, and have some evening drinks (expecting presents as well as wine) with your funniest friends.

And the next day, when you have finally received that amazing birthday dress from a distant aunt with excellent taste, you can boast. Finally.

Christmas in Moss

2008-10-27T20:14:00.005Z

Top shop has been counting down the days till Kate Moss' Christmas collection will hit the stores, and the day is getting close. TOPSHOP.COM, the web-shop onto which thousands of girls who want to look like 'stylish Kate' are going to log on tomorrow, probably cannot wait.

I have looked at the sneak peaks from the collection, and I have to say I am, not surprisingly though, disappointed.

Some pieces are undeniably cute, including a sixties-style mini dress 'a la Brigitte Bardot', but maybe not for Christmas.

Firstly, it might be a little too cold outside to be sporting a style that short, and risk turning your thighs into stalactites.

Secondly, Christmas tends to be about family dinners. And no matter how open-minded my own family is, I would not risk meeting my grand-parents in a snake spot print mini cocktail-dress, that reveals the colour of my knickers.

Top Shop experts will disagree with me however, the Christmas holidays should be about following our feelings and emotions to create a unique look.

If you want to follow Kate Moss' style advice (on the Top Shop website) be ready to be brave: "When going out for the evening, think about your arrival - the accidental pairing of a battered leather jacket and floor sweeping gown looks amazing and effortless"

Effortless surely. And a little unclassy too, perhaps.

But let tomorrow prove me wrong, when London fashionistas will overtake the store and secure a little piece of supermodel cloth. Well, with supermodel approval anyways.

London should better get ready for a grunge Christmas.

Annie Leibovitz's Life picture series

2008-10-26T19:22:00.009Z

Annie Leibovitz's exhibition A Photographer's Life, has now been showing for two week at the National Portrait Gallery in London, but it's still hard to get a ticket to see the photographs.

After two hours wait (I bought my tickets at 2pm, for the last showing of the day, at 4:30), I finally made it into the main hall of the exhibition.

Most pictures were in black and white, ranging from artistic shots of athletes to the famous pregnant and naked, Demi Moore (Vanity Fair cover, 1991).

Annie Leibovitz seems to like taking nudes. Her photos are extremely personal, sometimes intrusive but always striking. There is something almost voyeuristic about them.

Most of the exhibition is a simple and clear illustration of its title: it is a showcase of intimate moments, taken from the photographer's family and romantic life.

There is a side-gallery plastered with 6x4in shots: a retrospective of her life, ranging from holiday pictures in Paris, photographs of Leibovitz's daughter, her lover Susan Sontag in hospital after she had been diagnosed with leukaemia (she died in 2004), to pictures of her mother and father on a day out to the sea.

The exhibition is worth seeing but not for its fashion photography collection. The latest photographs showcased were taken in 2005, so there are none of her latest Vogue shoots or her Disney Dream Portrait Series.

Swarovski is a girl's best friend

2008-10-25T22:03:00.002+01:00

La Semana de la Moda (Fashion Week Mexico for English speakers), celebrating its 10th anniversary, has finished today, after a week of showcasing colourful collections with the name of exotic birds and cocoa drinks.

Amongst clothes by new Mexican talents such as Marvin y Quetzal or Cocola, there is one designer that did not go unnoticed.

Gustavo Helguera is not afraid of colour or sound.

Models with tights ranging from bright green to tomato red and pumpkin-orange, Rock' n' Rolled up the catwalks Wednesday in a very smiley fashion.

The Mexican born jewelery designer, mixes anything he believes will create pieces with structure, form and sound.

For Spring/Summer 2009, he lightened up the mood on the runway, with Swarovski-encrusted statement pieces, ranging from oversize pearl chokers to a red-crystal, heart-shaped, dangling belt.

But one of the most eye-catching piece was probably the 12" vinyl LP hair-piece, with a bright-yellow smiley face as a centre hole. It is still a mystery to me, how it stayed in place on the model's head...

Helguera's designs are remarkable and bring out femininity in a joyful outlandish way. And although some of his large, coloured-stone pendants can be loud, there are no better pieces to pull an outfit to life.

Sarees are the new thing

2008-10-24T21:03:00.004+01:00

Sarees seem to be popular with fashion celebrities lately. Liz Hurley was wearing a rich-pink Indian dress, in Mumbai, a couple of days ago.

Not quite as striking as Victoria Beckham, but the gown, lined with gold and subtly embroidered, still captured some attention.

The two fashion-hungry celebrities are not the only one to be taken by Indian dress-making skills. Sarees are traditionally made of light silk and richly died and decorated.

That's why designers love them.

Manish Arora took the Indian embellishing techniques to an extreme during Paris fashion week last month, with fascinating theatrical results. (Although sometimes a little nightmarish if you don't like clowns...)

We know have to wait and see other ways in which the sari can be reinterpreted.

Victoria is back as Vogue Cover-girl

2008-10-23T21:30:00.005+01:00

Victoria Beckham can now count two Vogue covers in her books, as she appears dressed in an Indian bridal gown for Vogue India's new November issue.

The 32-year-old designer is posing in a peach and red embroidered sari, with curly extension locks on her new pixie crop; and she looks breathtaking.

As a faithful front-row buyer and designer, Posh knows the ins-and-outs of fashion clothing, and she sure can recognise real talent. She reportedly commented on the beauty of the bridal outfits saying, "this is real craftsmanship".

Victoria has never been shy at experimenting with her image. And after being charmed by an affluence of traditional Indian-inspired designs, it is no wonder she jumped on the opportunity to taste true embroidered bridal-wear in an Eastern background.

Mrs Beckham knows, after all, what she is doing.

Victoria's First Vogue Cover was photographed by Nick Knight for British Vogue's April 2008 edition. She wore a Nina Ricci silk bustier dress and Swarovski-crystal bracelet.

The DIY Way

2008-10-23T14:29:00.003+01:00

Some girls just always look impeccably stylish, even when they are on the budget of a student or a tramp.

It seems to defy all reason: you cannot look like a page ripped out of Vogue when you have less than £10 a week to spend on clothes. Or can you?

In truth, it's not all that unachievable.

Vivienne Westwood created the look in the 70s and it's not about to go out of fashion. Punk might be dead but DIY isn't.

Agyness Deyn does it amazingly well. She has a list of fashion designers who are dying to dress her for free and yet she still wears tee-shirts and old jeans (that are probably not that old, but they look suitable worn) and barely any makeup.

A bit like any student out there. But she does it well: the trick is that she know what to team with what, and most importantly, she knows her style.

So, where does that leave us?

Charity shops are a great start. It might be a bit of a chore to go through everything but most of the time it's worth it.

Another good alternative is to pick up on what Westwood was doing herself in the Punk era: take old clothes, rip them to pieces and patch them back up. You're sure no one will have the same.

And last advice: layer. It won't show that your top is cheaply cut if it's cleverly half-hidden by a thin quirky jumper; or kept into place by a large belt.

It's all down to interpretation and resourcefulness.

Plus-size: Less fashionable

2008-10-20T22:03:00.013+01:00

If you are a size 20 and about to wear over the knee socks with shorts, a tartan cinched jacket or any of the season's trends for that matter, think again. The result will probably be laughable. Because these clothes have not been designed for you.

All current fashions are made for slim bodies.

A lot of designers agree to say that most clothes hang better on thinner people. It's all about flowy materials and suggestive draping. It's harder to work with curvy shapes than lean, straight ones.

The only way to have fat look fab would be to change the design process of clothes.

Figures are more important than we think: it might be more beneficial to have alternative fashion brands focusing on bigger body shapes.

But it also would mean the emergence of a "fat" fashion, opposed to mainstream fashion. No one is quite sure if such a thing would work, and how much outrage in the chubby ranks it would cause.

I believe everyone has the right to have great clothes, but the best way is probably to go to the gym and reach down to a size 14 or under.

Body shape ideals change constantly (think of chubby Marylin Monroe and Twiggy) and thin isn't necessarily size zero and outrageous. If thin is in, why not flow with it.

All depends if you would rather buy crisps or clothes.

Ethical fashion and shopping binges

2008-10-20T19:08:00.011+01:00

I was at yoga today and it got me thinking about the whole Ethical fashion craze. (You do have a lot of time to think while you're meditating in down-dog.)

I've observed in the fashion ranks a whole new lifestyle kicking in: yoga, healthy food, and an awareness of global warming and ethical matters.

Everything is going organic nowadays, from food to clothes. What are the pros and cons?

First of all it comes with a price and an expensive one: organic cotton is more expensive and let's be honest, the free range clothes which have been presented to us are often not the most flattering we can think of! Unless Jonathan Saunders is designing them, but in that case they are way over a normal trendy girl's budget.

Secondly, we are a generation of shopaholics. We have been brought up on the high street: our fashion life is all about clothes, more clothes and new clothes! Every year, every season, every month...

And let's admit it, we love it! A shopping spree is the ultimate heartbreak cure and stress or boredom remedy!

But it is true that the global economic situation is worrying.
And if we have enough to splash out on an expensive pair of shoes once in a while, we can afford to make small changes in our habits.

The key is: small change. Everyone is willing as long as the designers and shops give us a hand. For now, the organic future of fashion seems very far away.

There are small changes: H&M has a range of organic tee-shirts, Jonathan Saunders launched an ethical line with Oxfam and vintage clothing is now the most en vogue style.

The latter might be the best medium by which we can contribute to a healthier fashion. Recycling clothes has become cool, so why not keep on the trend? So long as it's not the majority of our wardrobe which is recycled.

At least not yet...

Vampires in Oxford Street: Goths are about to enter Mainstream Fashion

2008-10-19T20:46:00.007+01:00

Vivienne Westwood did it to Punk in 1981 and now it's about to happen to Goth. So, if you are a true member of the underground subculture be warned: your style is about to be revisited by the mainstream.

Everything is going black: from soft lace to lips and sequin. What is amazing with the Romantic Gothic style is the play with textures. Givenchy teams up chiffon and PVC to amazing results.

But why this craze for niche subculture looks?

Bringing dark worlds into fashion is a trademark of British designing. Vivienne Westwood was a pioneer of infusing controversy into the mainstream, but many like Jean Paul Gaultier and Jonathan Saunders followed the lead.

Provocative styles are sexy and young.

The soft-Goth look of this season has certainly been glamorised: it's all about a sleek and soft contrast of materials, feminine details and figure flattering cuts.

But, if Punk caused outrage back in the 80s, subcultures aren't as controversial anymore. The Goth black lips and heavy makeup didn't shock the catwalks. It amazed.

In a sense, it shows a wider fashion acceptance and the death of traditional day wear: anything goes nowadays, especially in London. But it might also mean the death of the subculture.

Kate Moss designer

2008-10-18T13:49:00.006+01:00

"If you can't look like a supermodel you can at least dress like one" is the moto behind Top Shop's collaboration with Kate Moss.

Her designs are worn by everyone and everywhere now. Her new Autumn/Winter collection is already causing a stir in the model-obsessed girl ranks!

It's true that the Kate Moss clothes can be worn as well on a night out as just to hang out and have a coffee. But one think still leaves me sceptical: supermodels don't dress themselves, they just represent designers!

So how is a woman, who has been dressed all her life by others is supposed to give us all a lesson in style?

It's business: her clothes sell because she is the name of the brand.

It's all about the British culture of style.

Kate Moss isn't the first supermodel to cater for the high street. Twiggy has done it before in the 1960s: she launched her own collection that lasted three years.

The only thing is that, yes, these women have been in the fashion industry for years, they obviously something about putting clothes together to create a look. But it's a little bit too much about the culture of the name to me.

It's all very nice to be able to wear a (cheaper!) replica of what Kate Moss has in her wardrobe, but at the end of the day it isn't her who creates the designs. She only decides if she likes it or not!

Anyone sees a hint of ego and marketing in all that?

Who ever said the older generation doesn't have a sense of style?

2008-10-17T19:32:00.004+01:00

We must admit that it's rare to hear someone this new cool trend "inspired by Nan." Unless curtains are your style trademark. And to be honest, unless you are Vivienne Westwood it's hard to make table cloths look good...

Let's face it, grand-parents (and sometimes parents) are not often cited as the most trendy people.

Could we be wrong?

On Wednesday I was at City Hall listening to Boris Johnson answer questions from the London Assembly, and I saw the most amazing swanky outfit: a delicately tailored bright red tartan double piece suit, with slightly padded shoulders.

And it was worn by a woman well past eighty!

A well tailored traditional design with a modish twist always does the trick, no matter how old you are. This little aged lady can easily rival with a Burberry clad Kate Moss any day in terms of style!

Maybe it's worth looking a little more towards the past to get inspiration going.

Trend congestion

2008-10-16T16:53:00.007+01:00

Celebrity fashion gets more publicity than designer fashion. That is probably the main reason why they are more trends now than ever before.

It is possible to name at least one celebrity per trend. Or one trend per celebrity:

Agyness Deyn is the DIY Rock' n' Roll wave
Mischa Barton is the trademark of Boho
Kate Moss did the follow up with Boho chic and folk
Alexa Chung publicised the sexy androgynous look ...

I could go on and on.

The puzzling thing in all that is the number of trends each season has to play around with.

A trend used to be a sensation one season and quickly out the next. It's true it meant a lot of wardrobe change. Now it means a lot of wardrobe overcrowding.

The new rule: nothing must be discarded in case it comes back into fashion in a couple of years time. I'm thinking the return of Boho chic or Nautical fashion.

Do we have too many celebrities that want to be different? The risk is overdoing it. It's best to stick to the style that suits you the most.

The good news is that we can pick and chose. No one fears to be stuck with some obscure unflattering shape for a whole season anymore!

Fashion's winter shapely silhouette

2008-10-15T23:01:00.006+01:00

Ok, I might be a little obsessed about size but I really can't get my head around all these opposite messages we are getting:

* Models are getting thinner by the minute and celebrities like to compare their bones.
* Designers are changing the size labels to make customers feel good (that's why an 8 can easily be a 10 in another shop)
* They tell us chocolate is good for the health
* And shape is "in"...

The Brigitte Bardot look is likely to inspire quite a few ways in which we can wear this winter's trends. I think it's an amazing thing: hips and leggings have always been a spicy match.

Also, there is nothing better than a tight stripped wool mini dress to valorise a womanly figure. And, as not many people have the physique of Twiggy, the fifties shapely look is a perfect fashion!

The feminine form has been celebrated on the catwalk this season, from Luella's mini soft black glamour dresses to over the knee high socks.

Basically it's all about shape: cropped trousers with a tucked in shirt, flowy and soft, cashmere cardigans and wool dresses.

If we can do it, why can't the models?

Film designs for Fashion: is this the wrong way round?!

2008-10-14T22:16:00.003+01:00

Sofia Coppola has created a range of bags and shoes for Louis Vuitton.

No, you haven't read this wrong: it it the film producer who designed for the designer. Confusing?

To be fair, she has interned with Karl Lagerfeld in the past and even launched a line of clothing in Japan. So she is up to the challenge.

And if we think about it, film directing is a bit like piecing together ideas and concrete matters. The difficulty might come in the production techniques. But one might argue that she has Louis Vuitton to help her.

To be honest, as much as her ideas and sense of aestetic are not in doubt, original visions are often not enough. But why not?

Fashion and film are closely interlinked and it will be interesting to see how a producer designs a film (literaly), instead of having a designer showing fashioning a film.

Now we have to wait and see how the collaboration goes.

Beauty versus prettiness: what makes a new fashion face

2008-10-13T16:20:00.007+01:00

Beauty is a very elusive thing.

Earlier today I was looking at some photos from the Australian fashion week. I was rather surprised to see how the models have very different features from the ones I am used to see on the catwalks.

I know beauty is constantly changing, especially in fashion: agents spot a new girl or a new look every three months.

It was the case with Twiggy, Naomi Campbell, Gemma Ward or Rosie Huntington-Whiteley (one of the new faces of the late noughties year).

Faces change because newness sells.

But I also think there is something more to it. The girls that start the trends have a characteristic: they have presence. That's what makes fashion photography so vibrant.

Beauty is the opposite of prettiness. It has nothing to do with fashion. On the contrary, someone like Angelina Jolie or Christy Turlington still turns heads when she is wearing a dirty old tee-shirt and no makeup.

It's a fascinating (and unfair!) gift. That's why, it's worth looking back twice at someone who caught your attention. Beauty is like a collectible you can store in your memory. A bit like an uncanny landscape.

How many Fashion Weeks do you know about?

2008-10-12T21:14:00.005+01:00

LA Fashion Week is kicking off this week end only a week after a month of shows at the four pivotal fashion spots of the world.

After so many shows it's no wonder it often disappears into the pitfall of fashion indifference.

Los Angeles Fashion Week was created in 2004 and never really got the publicity it probably deserves. To be honest the city rivals New York in terms of fashion forward thinking and especially, wearable clothes.

The main problem is the timing: it comes too late after New York, London, Milan and Paris. The buzz has passed. And it comes too early in terms of marketing: the high-fashion buyers have already spent all the cash they could put their hands on on big labels.

But with Globalization, it is incomprehensible that fashion is still limited to the four "pillar" countries. Designers from India, Belgium and Norway are up and coming, and showing in Paris and London. Many more are showing in their countrie's Fashion weeks.

So why is there so little publicity for "international" fashion weeks?

It's true that Cape Town is starting to build a name for itself, but who has ever heard of Tokyo fashion week or Australian fashion week?

The latter is starting tomorrow by the way.

I think International fashion needs a little more attention, there might be a lot of new talents to spot. And even if in the south part of the hemisphere they wear summer clothes throughout our winter, it's not a good enough reason to dismiss them! The last shows were the Spring Summer collections anyways.

Vogue's 1950 unpublished nude shot

2008-10-11T18:55:00.000+01:00

It's crazy how many fashion shots get thrown aside. It's a bit like getting rid of your embarrassing holiday pictures.

Except that those unpublished photographs are incredible.

Today I discovered Norman Parkinson.

While skimming though my new Unseen Vogue book, I was blown away by one of his nudes: a model, lying nonchalantly on a sofa, surrounded by 1950's girdles, corselettes and suspender belts.

It's astoundingly glamorous and really doesn't look like it was taken in 1950. It might be the way the model looks at the camera. (Or the fact that it's hard to imagine this girl is now the same age as my Nan...)

I don't know why it was never published in Vogue. It might have been the frontal nudity. Even now, models don't often appear fully naked in magazines. Although Diva magazine did make an Anti-fashion - naked issue (October 2008).

It might be time to bring back the concept in fashion glossies.

Don't Feed the Models

2008-10-10T18:50:00.000+01:00

I finally got around to watch the documentary Super Slim Me yesterday. Dawn Porter takes it on to reach a size zero (UK4) in 6 weeks. She fails, but honestly we can't blame her!

The documentary was released almost two years ago now, just before the LFW (London Fashion week. It was one of the cries to the BFC (British Fashion Council) to ban underweight models from the shows.

It failed.

The 'Big Four' fashion weeks are just over, and the models were no bigger this year that before the outrage. If you have a BMI of 16 and are five times taller than the designer employing you, you're good to go!

The fashion conclusion? Statement bows and bones are in next season.

To be honest I don't blame the BFC either, I am not arguing in favour of having a size 14 on the catwalk. Or even a size 12. Not that either size aren't fine (and healthy), it's just that I see size 12 girls every day.

Fashion is about inspiration.

But who wants to be inspired by a malnourished celery-stick looking teenager, who probably eats less than a 3 year old!

When you read Dawn Porter's journal, the whole idea of trying to reach size zero is a bit of a joke:

"I feel utterly miserable. So starving and I can't sleep. [...] today I had to get up to go see the doctor. She thought I had terrible concentration and seemed edgy. I showed her the inside of my mouth. It is full of ulcers. I caught myself chewing it - my body is trying to eat itself!"

Not very nice sounding! She is making herself almost become anorexic. I say almost, because anorexia is a mental illness first and foremost, but the report does show how much food can affect your mood and your life.

The woman out there trying their hardest - and you can't really go harder than a crash diet! - are just killing themselves slowly, but they are also "learning" an illness that 50000 people in Britain are fighting each day.

All that to look like a bony carrot that has probably been photoshoped in order to hide the damages a little.

I think that having people on the bridge of starvation in fashion shows is insulting: to people who are really starving out there, and to people with an eating disorder, who are really struggling every day to regain a couple of pounds. And not for vanity. Just so they don't drop dead.

I think Dawn Porter's documentary ending is spot on!

Is fashion body or clothes?

2008-10-09T17:50:00.000+01:00

In LA, most of the girls on the streets are a size 0 (UK 4) to 4 (UK 8). Not quite what you see when you're walking down Oxford street!

In Britain, a UK 6 is pretty hard to spot. Girls prefer to show off their clothes than their bones. Not a bad thing in my opinion.

Indeed, London streets are full of fashion forward ideas and experimental trends. No one really seems to care whether she's too "fat" to wear pink tights, or if her cincher belt is more than 22 inches.

The result? In my opinion: crazy styles and happier faces. It's a fact that a girl gets cranky when she's hungry.

What is really puzzling me though is, why do LA girls hide their "media perfect" bodies under tracksuits? I would think that if you go to the gym three times every day you would want to show it off.

One of my friends says it's laziness. It is true that after two miles on the treadmill, a body combat class, a swimming session and half an apple in your stomach you just want to collapse on the spot and in comfy clothes.

The relationship with fashion and the body is still so different I cannot get my head around it. This is a matter that need further looking into...

Valentino without Valentino?

2008-10-07T15:58:00.001+01:00

Maybe it's the excess of Champagne but fashion week has a reputation for public backstabbing. It is after all one of the most watched fashion events of the year.

This year however it seems they outdid themselves! We have all heard of the rather sour way in which Alessandra Facchinetti was fired after the Valentino show on Friday.

It was sly, yes, but it's fashion. What is interesting is to dig a little deeper under the catwalk and look at what this means for young designers. There is a bit of a cold war going on at that level: veterans fashion labels against "unruly" new ideas.

So what did Facchinetti try to do to the label?

Last season (autumn/winter 2008-9) she impressed with a new concept: focusing on the image of "a modern, elegant and dynamic woman who gets around".

Apparently this is the kind of thinking that seems to have irritated Valentino: "There is an existing archive with thousands of dresses where [a designer] can draw and take inspiration from to create a Valentino product that is relevant today. It is a shame that [Facchinetti] didn't feel this need."

OUCH!

It's true it is hard to take over a fashion house with such a strong identity. The dilemma appears every time a major label founder steps down.

But labels need to evolve. If there was no new uptake on classic designs we would still be wearing corsets and top hats. And Chanel would still be doing sportswear...

John Galliano did it beautifully but Dior was on the verge of crumbling down.

Valentino seems to want a Valentino design, exactly how he wants it but without doing it himself... Granted, it must be hard to watch from a distance 'young ones' toying with your life's success!

But come on, we need to give all those new designers a chance!

Photoshop me please: I'm a model, I need to look like one!

2008-10-06T20:48:00.000+01:00

If Photoshop was some drinkable potion I'm pretty sure most of us out there would give it a try at least once. I know I would. Looking good without any effort with just a click of the fingers? Hell yea!

So why is everyone against Liz Hurley shedding a few pounds post photo shoot, or Keira Knightley adding a little bit of volume to her cleavage? Because it's fake?

Well that isn't breaking news any more, is it? We all know that nobody looks like magazine models, not even the models!

So why the outrage?

It's true that even though we all know it's fake, it's hard to see it. When I look at a magazine cover I don't think: "pfff, she's plastic, no one looks like that". I think: "gosh, I wish I had toned arms like her!" All these flawless complexions and cellulite-less bodies have an impact on us, whether we want it or not.

Sometimes magazines do push it too far. Just think of the Kate Winslet debate with GQ five years ago. But the key thing with that story is that she hadn't agreed to electronically shed that many stones!

But let's turn the tables around for a minute: you have a very hot date, how long do you spend in the bathroom getting ready? There is the makeup, the hair, the clothes...

In my opinion you can only judge if someone really is beautiful the morning after. However it also means that a beautiful person can look EVEN MORE stunning with all the fuss.

Well, yes, it's not a feminist notion... But come on, even in fairy tales the princess is a stunner.

There is always going to be someone prettier than us (and someone less fortunate). Let's get over it!

Instead of being angry at those models for promoting a fake image why not feel for them? Imagine having to get ready, not for one hot date, but a billion people!

At the end of the day we all worry that our thighs are fat. Models probbaly more than us. Because their thighs are really going to be scrutined! And, let's be sincere we are harsh judges!

What size do you want to see?

2008-10-05T10:40:00.000+01:00

I have been told I am a 'size-ist': that sounds awful doesn't it?

Well, apparently I am not the only one. Dare also told me I am one of the growing number of women in the UK with a distorted perception of body weight. (However the article also mentioned it isn't our fault, pfeww!)

How did the verdict come along? The magazine has a picture of a size 14 model (the size of an average British woman) with the caption: "Is she fab or fat?"

You guess the rest, I shamefully thought she could do with losing a few pounds...

That doesn't mean I believe it is a good thing that most of what we see in the media are emaciated celebrities, that look like 12 year old pre-pubescent boys with a pair of fake boobs.

However a very good point was raised in the article: a healthy-weight model looks too real. Looking at the half-naked size 14 model feel a bit like walking on someone naked in a changing room: it's intrusive.

Well, it's true that if all the models on advertising boards were a "normal" size, we would be living in a nudist city! But no one really gives a childlike model a second thought - because she isn't sexualized. That's probably why Lily Cole pausing nude caused uproar: it looks wrong.

I still don't believe models should be an "average" size. (Careful, you might not want to listen to me here, I might be brainwashed by my size-ist mind!) However for celebrities it's a different thing: actresses look more believable if they are a range of sizes we are used to. Maybe a tiny bit smaller and more toned for the glamour. But it's all about representing reality.

Or maybe it would help to see celebrities outside of the glossies - would we still think they look so fab without Photoshop?

Have fashion models all gone naked?!

2008-10-04T10:39:00.000+01:00

You would think the Playboy bunny look is a woman (preferably blond) with large breasts, generous hips and tiny waist. Do I have anyone in mind?

No, no I don't stick to stereotypes, I'm sure Playboy is more than just Pamela Anderson, as french Playboy's fashion director ALex Aikiu said. According to him it doesn't matter "about how big your boobs are - it's about being sweet and innocent".

The innocent look indeed... on the cover she pauses stark naked, in white socks with pig tales, hugging a teddy bear. It might be a male fantasy, but photographing a girl with the physique of a fourteen year old pausing as a child is a little odd, in a Lewis Caroll kind of way.

I think it's bad enough to have to battle with the "size zero" debate in our everyday life. If even sexy models are skin and bones now, what is going to be the next "ideal" physique promoted by the media?

The shot is beautiful nonetheless. Is everyone sure it isn't an advertisement for M&S's new teddy range? Oops sorry... my wrong!

Kate Moss or Aphrodite?

2008-10-03T20:48:00.000+01:00

It might be the new Mona Lisa. It might be that after 300 magazine covers Kate Moss had to be depicted in a new way. Or it might be the prospect of a 1.5 million British Pound bidding.

Whatever the reason, Marc Quinn has not wasted his gold. Kate Moss is once more on the front covers, but this time in a strange (and rather unattractive) yoga-like pause which she feels "lifts her into a mythic level" Quinn told the press.

I am not sure I see the mythical side of the whole thing. And the various comparisons to Aphrodite are a bit of an overstatement in my opinion.

Celebrities do tend to be adulated like Gods. Whether this adulation overshadows their real talent is debatable...

I do concede Kate Moss promoted a new fashion "waif" look in the 1990s. And she did some very good campaigns for Calvin Klein. She certainly has a knowledge of the industry.

However... Aphrodite? For some reason I cannot assimilate the icon of heroine chic with the Greek Goddess of love, lust, beauty, prostitution and sexual reproduction.

Beauty? Fashion models represent 8% of the population, so chances are they are not chosen for their striking beauty representative of current society. They are spotted because they have the required body type and possibly a striking characteristic. Basically models are scouted if they smell like money. They are meant to last in the industry and sell well.

Love and sexual reproduction? I am not sure Kate Moss is famed for these either. One just needs to think of Pete Doherty...

But who am I to question Marc Quinn's interpretation of our civilization's aesthetic ideal? Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

A place where fashion kills

2008-10-02T11:10:00.000+01:00

There is a pair of Chanel wedges I would kill for. But I would not wear them at the risk of being killed.

In some countries of the Middle East women are killed for less than a fancy pair of heel shoes. Showing a bare ankle is sometimes enough.

I was shocked to read in a brilliant article by Rachel Cook that in Yemen women have to think twice before raising their veil to eat breakfast in a restaurant. Even though most restaurants have separate rooms for women diners.

The debate is a difficult one. A lot of Islamic women wear the veil out of choice. But it is difficult to choose when the weight of tradition is against you. Free will is a questionable concept: in Afghanistan, now the chadri is no longer required it is less frequently worn. When it is, it's often a matter of personal safety.

Is that free will?

The Qur'an stresses the importance of modesty. As far as I am aware, having a moral conscience isn't about a piece of cloth - however long or whatever the colour. It is about being comfortable and respecting yourself and others.

To me, fearing imprisonment because I have not lowered my head at the right moment; or worrying constantly whether my wrists are covered properly by fear of a beating is not respecting myself.

Fashion is not the most moral industry. But clothes have no conscience in themselves. They are a second skin and make us who we are.

Fashion should never kill.

Horror dance shows

2008-10-01T10:12:00.000+01:00

Anyone fancy wearing nylon tights to cover your face?

Designers don't seem to be very hot for traditional catwalks this season with a monster show from Maison Martin Margiela (who likes to hide his models like he hides from the public); and today Jean Paul Gaultier has a frenzy dance show followed by feather boas and dramatic bodysuits.

The clothes are striking and picturesque, slightly disturbing but what is most innovative - following the likes of Viktor and Rolf - is the introduction of performance onto the Paris catwalk.

It's nice to see the mood is for challenge, even if ready to wear is not so readily wearable anymore. If it ever was.

Strange thoughts on 9/11

2008-09-30T16:44:00.000+01:00

It's a strange thought that in an explosion clothes and people are equally reduced to dust. Today my class and I were shown a largely unaccessible footage of 9/11. Witnessing disaster always makes you think. This video even more so. Maybe because it was closer to what the New Yorkers might have seen on the day than any other.

There was a particular close up of one of the towers from which some people were seen stepping out of the windows. One of them is in flames, or clearly struggling with some burning object or jacket.

It is painfully real yet I can't help thinking about the apocalyptic end of Fight Club. I am witnessing the destruction of the financial centre of the Big Apple. That was a day when the Fight Club cynical humour was appropriate. I am sure women did not bother taking off their heel shoes before running for their lives (as they suggest you do on airplane security drawings). You just run the best you can in such a case - heels or no heels, pain or no pain. Not that many people managed to reach an exit, other than the windows.

From the ground around the World Trade Centers the commotion is increasing. People are gaping at the towers, too shocked to know what to do. It is a bit like an erupting volcano: a disaster too overwhelming to comprehend. I am still overwhelmed every time I see a video of 9/11.

It is not long before the first Tower falls crumbling to its base. Its Twin follows and leaves the site in clouds of smoke and dust. The volcano has erupted. Two of the tallest buildings in America have disappeared within minutes.

The most uncomfortable feeling I have is to know that the people I saw stepping out of the windows, probably some 80 something floors above ground, never escaped.

We then see clouds of dust. People running from the tsunami of smoke. Smoke under which were buried thousands of people and tens of thousands of clothes and shoes when we think about it.

I can't stop wondering though if even in the apex of disaster we don't cling to stupid little things like a watch, a necklace or a pair of shoes. Maybe more victims than we think died with a fashion item or accessory in hand simply because it had a particular significance to them.

It doesn't make any of this less terrible but it's nice to know small things can bring even mild comfort at the worst of times. Who said you can't walk through Heaven and Hell clutching your favourite handbag!

Girls like boys like girls

2008-09-30T16:04:00.000+01:00

Androgynous fashion. We have all heard of it, it is everywhere. Designers love it and it has to be said, a man's shirt over opaque leggins and a cincher belt do look great. But what about another close trend: masculine fashion?

Yesterday I bumped into an article on Agyness Deyn and lesbian fashion. I was told that with the affluence of boyish styles around, lesbians were at risk of being robbed of their style.

It is the endless question of clothes and sexuality. Does cropped hair, a waistcoat and a tie make you look gay? It certainly does in a gay club, but how about in a heterosexualised space? Probably not.
Why? Because Agyness Deyn, Keira Knightley, Sienna Miller and the likes would all be dating each other. And so would any other girl who likes waistcoats and baggy jeans.

The author has a point when she says it can be very confusing for the gayday (that amazing radar detecting who's gay and who's not). But what does it mean at large?

Lesbians have their own style (like Punks, Emos and any other self-identified group). And they claim it. But it is worth asking where that style originates from.

For a long time lesbians were believed to be men in wrong bodies. A claim made by psychologists and sexologists a century ago. That was the start of identifying a masculine woman as a lesbian.

Obviously things have changed. So why cling to the idea that masculine fashions belong exclusively to gay girls? True, girl that dress like boys and look like girls are sexy - men as well as lesbians will agree. But I think it is time to put aside the term "lesbian fashion". Because mentalities change, clothes change and sexuality changes.

That lesbians favour the angrogynous style is great, but any girl looks fabulous with an edge to her femininity so let everyone experiment with the other sex's clothes!